"NEW-YORK-STYLE-DELI'S' OUTSIDE NEW YORK

Forty years ago New York City was home to more than 300 "New-York-style delis". Lately it would seem there are more of these outside the five boroughs than are in New York itself. In the old days you could grab a pastrami sandwich or a potato knish every few blocks. Today there are barely 50 traditional delis standing, and rumors are that Katz's, the city's oldest, may be closing soon. These ancient institutions are on the brink of extinction.

Today in Manhattan only three remain: the Stage, the Carnegie and Katz's. Katz's is the only one that still draws a hometown crowd. The Carnegie and Stage delis have for years catered to tourists. We'll see how Second Avenue Deli does after its been reopen longer.

The current popular thing is to market the New York deli experience outside of the city, even outside of New York State. USA Today did an article called "10 Great Places to Nosh On Authentic Jewish Deli Food." A few were actually in Manhattan. These were not:

*Canter's Deli, Los Angeles - This old–fashioned deli in the heart of L.A. looks
the same as it did when it opened at its Fairfax Ave. location in 1953 (though it's
been in business since 1931). The booths are the same. Even the waitresses
seem pretty much the same. And they have the best bakery in the city: babka,
rugelach, cheese Danish, cheese blintzes. The 475-seat restaurant is open
24 hours a day. 323-651-2030; cantersdeli.com

*Shapiro's Delicatessen - Indianapolis - Exactly where you'd expect to find a
classic deli. This one has been in the Shapiro family for four generations.
The cafeteria-style restaurant seats 250 who flock to dine on classic fare such
as sour cream egg noodles and potato pancakes. 317-631-4041;
shapiros.com.

*Zingerman's Delicatessen - Ann Arbor, Michigan - They say that owners Ari
Weinzweig and Paul Saginaw couldn't find decent deli food in this Midwest
college town, so they solved the problem by opening their own place.
Considered by many to be the best deli outside of New York. They
opened it in the 80's. It has developed into a very popular, famous place
because of good, plentiful food. 734-663-3354; zingermans.com.

*Attman's Delicatessen - Baltimore - This is the last deli in an area of East
Baltimore once known as Corned Beef Row. The establishment has occupied
the same spot on Lombard Street since 1927. It was founded 12 years earlier
in a nearby locale and remains in the Attman family. The salami, bolgna and
knishes are all homemade. The bread pudding is divine. 410-563-2666;
attmansdeli.com.

*Rose's Deli & Bakery - Portland, Oregon - Portland isn't exactly a hotbed of
Jewish cooking, but Rose's has been an off-and-on fixture since 1956 when
Rose Naftalin opened her place on NW 23rd Avenue. She retired in 1967. The
restaurant closed in 1980, but reopened with new owners 14 years ago. It has
changed and expanded. There are four Rose's Delis in the area now. All
rely on Naftalin's original recipes. People come from all over for the
cinnamon rolls. 503-222-5292; rosesrestaurant.net.

*Nate 'n Al Delicatessen Restaurant - Beverly Hills, CA - The celebrity spotting
at this vintage deli is pretty good. Regulars include Larry King, Robert Wagner
and Neil Diamond. Still, it's not as touristy as some New York delis. It tries to
be a locals' place. Little has changed since 1945. The waitresses have bee
there forever. The menu hasn't changed. And even in weight-conscious
Beverly Hills, on Sundays there's a line out the door. The whitefish is delicious;
the lox to die for. 310-274-0101; natenal.com.

*Langer's Deli - Los Angeles - The pastrami sandwiches have been on the
menu since 1947, but the patrons still rhapsodize about them. Co-owner Norm
Langer was coaxed into revealing his pastrami recipe. It is included in his book
but he doubts anyone will make it because it takes three hours of cooking in
a custom-made steamer. 213-483-8050; langersdeli; com.

Kosher is where the heart is and so are New York delis it would seem.